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Development of Functional Cosmetic Materials Using the Bioactive Compounds from Brown Seaweeds

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Abstract
오늘날 고도의 산업 발달은 심각한 환경오염을 초래하였고 이로 인한 오존층 파괴는 지표면에 도달하는 자외선 양을 증가시켜 환경에 부정적인 영향을 끼치고 있다. 또한 경제성장이 국민소득을 증가시키면서 삶의 질을 높이려는 노력이 지속되었고, 이로 인해 다양한 레저활동을 즐기려는 인구가 빠르게 증가되어 자외선 노출시간에 비례한 피부 흑화 현상이 증가하는 추세이다. 인간의 피부는 인체와 외부 환경과 경계를 이루는 기관으로서 체온조절과 외부로부터 내부 장기를 보호하는 등 생명유지를 위한 주요 기능을 수행하며 부수적으로 피부 호흡, 특정 물질에 대한 선택적 흡수, 피부색 형성 등의 기능이 있다.
인체를 청결 또는 미화하고 피부 또는 모발을 건강하게 유지하기 위해 사용되는 화장품은 현대에 들어 약진하는 산업중의 하나이다. 이러한 산업에는 자외선 차단, 미백, 주름방지, 항산화, 항균 등 다수의 분야가 포함되며, 이에 관련된 제품들을 만들 수 있는 천연물에 대한 관심이 증가하는 추세이지만 실질적으로 산업에 응용되고 있는 천연물은 많지 않다.
이 연구에서는 다양한 천연물의 보고인 해양으로부터 새로운 기능성 화장품소재를 개발하기 위하여 제주연안에 서식하고 있는 40종의 해조류들을 대상으로 라디칼 소거활성과 tyrosinase억제 활성을 검정하였다. 스크리닝 결과 갈조류인 꽈배기 모자반 (Sargassum siliquastrum), 패 (Ishige okamurae), 그리고 감태 (Ecklonia cava)에서 다른 해조류들에 비해 우수한 효과를 나타내는 것을 확인하였고, 이에 따라 이들 세 종의 갈조류를 대상으로 활성물질을 분리하여 항산화, 미백 및 자외선 차단 효과를 검증하였다.
그 결과 꽈배기 모자반으로부터 우수한 DPPH 라디칼 소거효과를 나타내는 chromene계열의 물질인 sargachromanol series와 세포보호 및 자외선 차단 효과가 우수한 carotenoid계열의 물질인 fucoxanthin이 분리되었다. 또한 패 와 감태 에서 우수한 항산화효과와 미백, 그리고 자외선 차단효과를 갖는 phlorotannin계열의 물질인 diphlorethohydroxycarmalol과 dieckol이 분리되었다. 이들 중 dieckol은 동물실험을 통해 자외선 차단 효과를 확인한 결과에서도 우수한 홍반 감소효과와 부종 억제효과가 검증되었다.
따라서 이 연구에서 분리된 dieckol은 in vitro와 in vivo 모두에서 상기한 효과가 우수하게 나타나 새로운 기능성 화장품소재로의 이용이 유망할 것으로 판단된다.
As environmental pollution increases in developed countries, harmful skin damage is increasing by the ultra violet radiation that is emitted due to ozone layer destruction. Skin forms a remarkable protective barrier against the external environment, helping to regulate temperature and fluid balance, keeping out harmful microbes and chemicals, and offering some protection against sunlight. Melanin is the major pigment for color in human skin. It plays a critical role in the absorption of free radicals and melanogenesis in the skin in a kind of process that produces photoprotective agents against damaging UV effects. However, the overproduction of melanin induces serious skin problems including cancer and pigmentary disorders. Hence, many cosmetic and pharmaceutical companies have tried to find melanogenesis inhibitors and UV protection agents. Recently, several researchers have reported on antioxidants for the cosmetic industry, which has been using natural compounds in products. However, only select compounds can be applied in cosmetics.
Therefore, in this study, we investigated the antioxidant, whitening and UV protective effects of 40 kinds of marine algae, to develop natural functional cosmetic materials. Out of these marine algae, Sargassum siliquastrum, Ishige okamurae, and Ecklonia cava were selected as potential biomass from screening experiments, which included radical scavenging activity and tyrosinase inhibitory effects. S. siliquastrum presented 13 types of active compounds related to antioxidant activity. Among them, sargachromanols D, E, and G showed higher DPPH radical scavenging activity than a commercial antioxidant (ascorbic acid), while fucoxanthin exhibited profound effects on ROS and UV-induced cell damage. Diphlorethohydroxycarmalol was isolated from I. okamurae, which showed strong antioxidant and whitening effects. Moreover, diphlorethohydroxycarmalol possessed protective effects against ROS and UV-induced cell damages. E. cava also contained active compounds related to antioxidant and whitening effects. Among them, dieckol exhibited profound activities in the performed experiments. From these investigations, dieckol showed strong antioxidant and whitening effects, as well as protective effects against UV radiation in both in vitro and in vivo experiments. Accordingly, dieckol could be used as functional cosmetic materials derived from natural marine product.
Author(s)
Heo, Soo-Jin
Issued Date
2008
Awarded Date
2008. 2
Type
Dissertation
URI
http://dcoll.jejunu.ac.kr/jsp/common/DcLoOrgPer.jsp?sItemId=000000004276
Affiliation
제주대학교 대학원
Department
대학원 해양생물공학과
Advisor
전유진
Table Of Contents
INTRODUCTION = 1
Part Ⅰ. Screening for antioxidant activities and tyrosinase inhibitory effect of marine algae = 19
ABSTRACT = 19
MATERIALS AND METHODS = 20
Materials = 20
Extraction procedure of 80% methanolic extracts from marine algae = 20
ABTS radical scavenging assay = 20
DPPH radical scavenging assay = 22
Tyrosinase inhibition assay = 22
Statistical analysis = 23
RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS = 24
Part Ⅱ. Isolation of cosmetic materials from Sargassum siliquastrum = 36
ABSTRACT = 36
MATERIALS AND METHODS = 37
General experimental procedures = 37
Materials = 37
Extraction and isolation = 39
DPPH radical scavenging assay = 43
Hydroxyl radical scavenging assay = 56
Hydrogen peroxide scavenging assay = 56
Antioxidant activities by cell lines = 56
Cell culture = 57
Hydrogen peroxide scavenging assay = 57
Assessment of cell viability = 58
Determination of DNA damage by comet assay = 58
Nuclear staining with Hoechst 33342 = 59
Protective effect by ultra violet irradiation = 60
Cell culture = 60
UV-B irradiation = 60
Intracellular reactive oxygen species measurement = 60
Assessment of cell viability = 61
Determination of UV-B induced DNA damage by comet assay = 62
Microscopic analysis for dead cells = 62
Inhibitory effect of melanin synthesis = 63
Cell culture = 63
Inhibitory effect of melanin synthesis = 63
Statistical analysis = 64
RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS = 65
Part Ⅲ. Isolation of cosmetic materials from Ishige okamurae = 138
ABSTRACT = 138
MATERIALS AND METHODS = 139
General experimental procedures = 139
Materials = 139
Extraction and isolation = 141
DPPH radical scavenging assay = 144
Alkyl radical scavenging assay = 144
Hydroxyl radical scavenging assay = 145
Hydrogen peroxide scavenging assay = 145
Antioxidant activities by cell lines = 146
Cell culture = 146
Hydrogen peroxide scavenging assay = 146
Determination of DNA damage by comet assay = 147
Assessment of cell viability = 147
Nuclear staining with Hoechst 33342 = 148
Tyrosinase inhibition assay = 149
Inhibitory effect of melanin synthesis = 149
Cell culture = 149
Inhibitory effect of melanin synthesis = 150
Protective effect by ultra violet irradiation = 150
Cell culture = 150
UV-B irradiation = 151
Intracellular reactive oxygen species measurement = 151
Assessment of cell viability = 151
Determination of UV-B induced DNA damage by comet assay = 152
Microscopic analysis for dead cells = 153
Animal test = 153
UV absorption assay = 153
UV-B protection test for erythema and edema = 154
Statistical analysis = 154
RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS = 155
Part Ⅳ. Isolation of cosmetic materials from Ecklonia cava = 196
ABSTRACT = 196
MATERIALS AND METHODS = 197
General experimental procedures = 197
Materials = 197
Extraction and isolation = 199
DPPH radical scavenging assay = 200
Alkyl radical scavenging assay = 206
Hydroxyl radical scavenging assay = 206
Hydrogen peroxide scavenging assay = 206
Antioxidant activities by cell lines = 207
Cell culture = 207
Hydrogen peroxide scavenging assay = 207
Assessment of cell viability = 208
Determination of DNA damage by comet assay = 209
Tyrosinase inhibition assay = 209
Inhibitory effect of melanin synthesis = 210
Cell culture = 210
Inhibitory effect of melanin synthesis = 210
Protective effect by ultra violet irradiation = 211
Cell culture = 211
UV-B irradiation = 211
Assessment of cell viability = 211
Animal test = 212
UV absorption assay = 212
UV-B protection test for erythema and edema = 213
Statistical analysis = 213
RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS = 214
SUMMARY = 261
REFERENCES = 263
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT = 281
Degree
Doctor
Publisher
제주대학교 대학원
Citation
Heo, Soo-Jin. (2008). Development of Functional Cosmetic Materials Using the Bioactive Compounds from Brown Seaweeds
Appears in Collections:
General Graduate School > BMarine Life Sciences
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