광나무 열매 추출물을 이용한 견직물의 염색성

Abstract

본 연구는 제주도에서 쉽게 구할 수 있으나 염재로서 사용되고 있지 않던 광나무 열매를 이용하여 천연염료로서의 실용가능성을 검토해 본 결과 다음과 같은 결론을 얻었다. 1. 광나무 열매 염료는 산성염료이며 염색 메커니즘은 이온결합이다. 2. 광나무 열매의 색상은 Red로 나타났다. 3. 염액농도가 증가할수록 염색성이 향상 되었고, 400%가 적정온도이다. 4. 염색온도가 높아질수록 염색성이 증가하였고, 염색물의 손상을 초래하지 않는 적정 온도는 80℃이다. 5. 염색 시간이 증가 할수록 증가하였으며 60분이 적정시간으로 나타났다. 6. 반복횟수에 따른 염색성은 계속적인 증가를 보이고 있어 반복염색으로 진한 색상을 얻을 수 있는 것으로 나타났다. 7. 염색견직물의 드라이클리닝 견뢰도와 마찰견뢰도는 양호하였으나. 일광견뢰도 와 땀 견뢰도는 좋지 않았다. 이와 같이 광나무 열매는 매염제를 사용하지 않고도 견직물에 잘 염색이 되며 견뢰도도 비교적 양호하므로 새로운 친환경 천연염료 자원으로 이용 가능하다는 결론을 얻었다.

The objective of this study is to investigate the optimum dyeing conditions of Ligustrum japonicum Thunb fruit on silk fabric. Colorant was water-extracted from Ligustrum japonicum Thunb fruit and freeze-dried to obtain colorant powder. The effects of dye concentration, dyeing temperature,dyeing time, hydrogen ion concentration and the number of repeated dyeing were studied. Fastness to dry cleaning, rubbing, perspiration, and light was measured according to KS K 0644, KS K 0650, KS K 0715 and KS K 0700 respectively. In order to examine the dyeability according to dyeing conditions, hue, value and chroma of fabrics were measured based on Hunter L*,a*,b* and the Munsell color system by using a surface color measuring device, chroma Meter(CR-200, Minolta, JAPAN) The bath ratio was 1:20. Dyeing concentration was 100, 200, 300, 400 and 500% on the weight of fiber. Dyeing time was 20, 40, 60 and 80 minutes. Dyeing temperature was 20, 40, 60, 80, and 100℃. The pH value of dyeing solution were pH3, 5, 7, 10. The infrared high pressure dyeing machine (DL-1001 Series, DaeLim Eng., Korea) was used. As dyeing concentration increased dye adsorption increased up to 400% and it slowed down. Dye uptake was increased with raising temperature up to 80℃ and it slowed down. Dye adsorption occurred rapidly at first 20 minute and then it slowed down and reached to almost maximum dye uptake at 60 minute. Dye uptake increased by repeated dyeing. Silk fabric had good dye ability at pH3 and 5 but the color was changed in neutral and alkaline solution. The color range of dyed silk fabric was red. Therefore Optimum dyeing condition is 400%(o.w.f.), 80℃, 60 minute and pH5. And repeated dyeing improves dye uptake. Color fastness to dry cleaning and rubbing was good, but light fastness and perspiration fastness was poor.