제주지역 돼지고기 음식문화의 전통과 변화 : 의례음식에서 일상음식․향토음식으로

Abstract

In Jeju traditional society, food culture of the pork was very closely related to the local community in the way of the production, distribution, consumption. Especially the food culture of the pork in Jeju was mainly formed with the food for the rituals. But in the process of modernization, the community was beginning to dissolve and breakdown. And the food culture of the pork was changed to the ordinary and native food from the food for the rituals. It shows the changes of the food culture of the pork in Jeju. So in this paper, I attempted to check the traditions and changes of the food culture of the pork in Jeju, find out the factor of change and the sociocultural meaning Every house in Jeju the traditional society had a pig pen called a 'Dotongshi' and raised pigs. 'Dotongshi' is a facility combined with toilet and pig pen. Most of the house had a couple of pigs. The pig was fed human manure and leftover food. It could treat a human manure and also reproduce a manure as a fertilizer and use it for the crop and farmland usefully by raising a pig. The pig was a major source of income in a households and essential food for the ceremony. In the tradition society it was a usual thing that the members of the village themselves prepared for the pork through the 'Gye' which is a kind of traditional private fund popular among Koreans, whose members chip in a modest amount of money and take turns to receive a lump sum share. The members kill a pig and boning into 12 bones. This whole process is called 'Dotchuryeom' which is processed before the memorial service for ancestors. But in case of the preparation of pork for the sacrifice of marriage and funeral ceremony, it's not called 'Dotchuryeom' against preparation of pork in daily life. And killing and boning for the ceremony are performed by servants with master help. But the servant was disappeared after the Korean War and the job was done by men of the village. It was especially so in the marriage and federal ceremony. Marriage and federal ceremony was generally conducted over a three-day period. At this time pork is essentially prepared. On the first day, the pig is killed and boiled. They make a 'Sundae' with blood and guts of pig. They don't discard the soup from the boiling and make a soup by adding gulf-weed and share it. Not only they reproduce the food by boiling but also eat every part of the pig. This is a ecological consumption behavior. On the second day is for the guest. At this time, 'Gogiban' is served for the all guest. 'Gogiban' is a food which 3-thin slices of pork, 1-Sundae, a piece of tofu were putted on one plate. 'Gogiban' is distributed into 1ban per a person. There is a person to cut and manage the limited pork for the fair distribution. He goes by the name of 'Dogam'. The master of the pig even can take a pork by the Dogam's allowance. This means 'Dogam' has authority and duties. On the last day, the ceremony is performed. Pork 'Jeok' is cook in the memorial ceremony for ancestors. After the ceremony, food like a sacrificial rice cakes, pancakes and a piece of Pork 'Jeok' from the skewer are fairly distributed to the ceremony attendees. This is called by 'Banteugi' or 'Bandolligi'. The sacrifices of the shamanism 'Dotje' and ceremony of Confucianism in the village 'Poje' is a pig. These are a ceremony for the community and representative ceremony to share a pork with the community. But spreading of the modernization idea with cultivation of cash crop and Saemaeul Movement in 1970, the community was going to breakdown. According to this, food culture of the pork began to change. The Custom Raised a pig in the house was disappeared with 'Dottongsi' in 1980 and changed to the mass productions with a growth of pork industry. Production and distribution was divided and it could be possible to buy a pork in the butcher's shop or meat store. And the range of the consumption was getting smaller from the communal consumption to the personnel or family communal. The food culture of the pork is continuing as food for the ceremony but on the other side, ordinary and native food. The pork is consumed as stew, stir-fried, roasted and fried pork. etc in daily life. And pork is also consumed as a ham and sausage. So pork is consumed in the various way from the boiling. And the food culture of the pork is developing as a native food in special circumstance of the Cheju which tourism industry have a large part in. By settlement of the food service industry, food culture of pork for the ceremony is changing to the ordinary and native food. The socio-cultural meaning of the change of food culture of pork is below. The food culture of the Pork is continuing as a food for the ceremony to symbolize a community. But a person in charge of pork 'Jeok' and 'Dogam' changed from the male-centered to the female due to the change of the production and distribution and the place of the ceremony and the other factors. And it was possible to see the changes of consumption pattern and the modernization of the taste through the pork is cook in various way. In a capitalist society, the pork is becoming to commoditize as a native food.