탑드레스 토르소 패턴 개발

Abstract

드레스는 다른 의복과는 달리 디자인적인 요소가 강하고 바디라인의 아름다움을 추구하는 의상이다. 드레스는 웨딩, 파티, 연주 등에 사용되는 의상이며, 각각의 행사를 상징적으로 연출하는 의상이다. 오늘날 드레스 시장은 전통적이면서도 다양하게 변화하고 있다. 그러나 시장의 변화에 비해 의복분야에서의 드레스패턴의 연구는 많이 이루어지지 않은 편이다. 의상학 관련 전공자 및 업체에서 드레스 패턴 및 제작에 쉽게 접근할 수 있게 하며 소비자들의 체형에 적합하고 바디실루엣을 심미성 있게 표현할 수 있는 개선된 원형이 필요하다. 이에 본 연구는 선행 연구와 업체 소비자 조사를 통해 선호 네크라인 디자인 및 표준 사이즈를 선정하였다. 또한 커버율이 높은 표준 사이즈에 적합한 인대사이즈를 선정하고 입체 재단의 방법으로 연구원형을 제시하였다. 이때 바디의 심미성을 강조하기 위하여 드레스용 브래지어를 착용하는데 착용유무에 따른 원형에 대하여 착의평가를 실시하여 심미성 있는 원형을 평가하였다. 또한 연구원형의 적합성을 검증하기 위해 용도별 세 가지 탑드레스를 제작하여 패턴의 적합성 및 활용성을 제시하였다. 본 연구의 연구결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 드레스에 관한 선행 연구 조사에서 소비자의 드레스 선택 시 심미성이 가장 중요하였고, 선호 네크라인은 탑드레스로 나타났다. 드레스 업체 조사를 통한 네크라인 디자인 보유량 및 선호도 조사에서는 Top(Sweet-heart/Straight across) 디자인 보유량이 가장 많았고 가장 선호되었다. 또한 드레스용 브래지어 사용은 바디라인을 살려주어 심미성을 높이는 것으로 파악되었다. 업체가 보유하고 있는 사이즈 조사의 결과 55size, 66size의 분포율이 높았다. 그 이유는 55size, 66size에 해당하는 소비자가 많고 표준 사이즈에 가까워 사이즈 커버율이 가장 높기 때문이다. 즉 Top(Sweet-heart/Straight across) 디자인은 심미적 요소 뿐만 아니라 소비자의 체형에 따라 드레스의 보정 작업이 용이하다는 이유에서 선호되는 측면이 있었다. 둘째, 드레스용 브래지어를 착용한 후 신체 변화 치수가 젖가슴둘레 2.43cm, 가슴둘레 1.31cm, 젖꼭지사이수평길이 0.47cm, 목옆허리둘레선길이 2.20cm 증가하였다. 이는 드레스용 브래지어 착용으로 인한 증가량을 구체적 치수화하여 제시하였다는 의의가 있다. 또한 치수증가는 패턴설계 시 프린세스라인 굴곡에도 크게 영향을 미친다. 셋째, 입체재단을 통한 탑드레스 토르소 원형을 제시하기 위하여 표준 사이즈에 적합한 인대사이즈를 선정하고 드레스용 브래지어 착용·미착용에 따른 탑드레스 토르소 원형으로 실험衣를 제작한다. 착의평가하여 심미성 및 핏감, 착용자의 만족도를 검토하였다. 넷째, 새롭게 개발된 연구원형으로 탑드레스 디자인 시제품을 제작을 통해 개발된 탑드레스 토르소 연구원형은 탑드레스의 특성을 잘 표현해주고 심미성과 착용감이 고려된 패턴설계임을 확인할 수 있으며 탑드레스에 디테일을 추가함으로써 디자인의 활용 가능성 또한 제시하였다. 본 연구는 드레스 선호도에 관한 선행 연구 및 업체 조사결과와 심미성 있는 드레스를 위한 브래지어 착용을 연구원형에 적용한 것이므로 학계 및 업체에서 드레스를 제작할 시 원형의 활용도가 높을 것으로 예상된다. 이상과 같이 실질적으로 활용할 수 있는 탑드레스 토르소 원형을 개발하고 탑드레스 제작을 통해 연구 패턴의 적합성을 제시하였으나 추후연구를 통해 개발된 패턴의 활용과 다양한 드레스 디자인에의 적용을 검토할 것이다.

In this study, to develop torso patterns of top dresses selected as preferred designs through literature reviews and company surveys, body sizes suitable for standard sizes were selected and study patterns were made using draping techniques. In this case, since brassieres (hereinafter, 'bra') for dresses are worn to enhance the esthetics of the dresses and the dimensions of dresses are changed after wearing the bra for dresses, new study basic patterns were designed applying the dimensional changes. Design preference, actual states of use of bra for dresses, and systems for size correspondence were surveyed with companies that rent and produce dresses in the form of questionnaires. Dimensional changes in the bust region after using a bra were measured to analyze the changes. Thereafter, experimental clothes in two torso patterns, one for wearing a bra and the other for no bra, were made with muslin and the fits of the experimental clothes were evaluated to check the suitability and usability of the study patterns. First, according to the results of surveys of favorite necklines, the quantities of top (sweet-heart/straight across) necklines held were very large in all the three companies. The reasons for the large quantities of top dresses held by the companies could be found as good size coverage of top dresses and the fact that the designs of top dresses can be modified according to customers. On reviewing the results of surveys of consumers' preference for necklines from the standpoint of a person related to the companies involved in the selection of dresses, a phenomenon for various necklines to be preferred evenly can be seen. However, the most preferred designs are the top (sweet-heart / straight across) neckline designs in all the companies. Second, according to the results of the surveys of changes in body sizes after using a bra for dresses, the amounts of changes in body sizes after wearing a bra are as follows. In the case of the small size group with chest circumferences in a range of 75∼81cm, the average amounts of changes after wearing a bra for dresses were increases by 3.21cm in bust circumferences, 1.25cm in chest circumferences, 0.49cm in bust point-bust point, and 3.06cm in waist front lengths. In the case of the group with chest circumferences in a range of 81∼87cm, which are close to those of the standard somatotype, the average amounts of changes were increases by 2.54cm in bust circumferences, 1.25cm in chest circumferences, 0.44cm in bust point-bust point, and 2.39cm in waist front lengths. In the case of the group with chest circumferences in a range of 87∼93cm, which are slightly larger than those of the standard somatotype, the average amounts of changes were increases by 2.31cm in bust circumferences, 1.49cm in chest circumferences, 0.50cm in bust point-bust point, and 2.0cm in waist front lengths. In the case of the group with large chest circumferences in a range of 93∼99cm, the average amounts of changes were increases by 1.84cm in bust circumferences, 1.50cm in chest circumferences, 0.48cm in bust point-bust point, and 1.64cm in waist front lengths. Third, bodies for top dress torso design were selected. According the results of the surveys with companies, the average size of adult womenswear with large stocks was close to 86cm, which is close to the average of 55size (bust circumference 85cm) and 66size (bust circumference 88cm). It is close to bust circumference 84.93cm, waist circumference 72.82cm, and hip circumference 93.81cm, which are the average sizes of 20∼34 year old women in South Korea according the 7th Size Korea. The upper garment size name 85-91-160 that requires fitness, which was selected from among the adult womenswear sizes under Korean Agency for Technology and Standards' KSK 0051 because the ratio of the standard somatotype was high, is for body sizes as follows; bust circumference 85.0cm, waist circumference 68.9cm, and hip circumference 91.0cm. Trade mark Pig body no.9 with bust circumference 87.04cm, waist circumference 64.00cm, and hip circumference 92.16cm, which are close to the average values of individual regions by body type (normal body type, N body type); bust circumference 85.5cm, waist circumference 76.6cm, and hip circumference 91.3cm, was selected. Fourth, the top neckline dress torso experimental clothes were made using muslin for jackets to make them with bulkiness for the feeling of actual dresses and using bonning for dresses as the lining to precisely check the entire finish lines such as the princess line and the side lines. The experimental clothes designed with draping for body no. 9, which is close to the standard somatotype, were made to be tightly attached to the upper human body by enhancing the tightness of the dresses with banding work for fitness. Fifth, the top dress torso experimental clothes were worn by three subjects with body types within the standard deviation from the standard somatotype. The conditions of wearing were seen to evaluate 32 items with a 5 point scale, in which scores closer to 5 points mean better fitness. On reviewing the items with high evaluation scores and no difference in the averages of the two experimental dresses, it could be seen that both experimental clothes had good fitness on wearing and were highly evaluated in terms of the existence of pull or wrinkles. In addition, the experimental clothes were scored at least 4.00 on average in the evaluation of the princess line and top necklines. The experimental clothes were evaluated as 'good' for the position of the breast line and the position of the waist line, which are reference lines, and were also highly evaluated in that the armhole portion was well wrapping the upper breast. Cronbach's alpha was used to verify the reliability of the measurement tool by internal consistency and according the results, the values were at least 0.7 for the front, side, back, and overall indicating that the confidence level was satisfied. Sixth, the effects of whether a bra is used or not on changes in patterns were reviewed through the degree of polymerization of finished patterns. When a bra for dresses was worn, the waist front length increased by 1.7cm, the bust circumference increased by 2.1cm, and the amount of dart increased by 1.5cm in the patterns Seventh, based on the top dress torso pattern completed in this study, a wedding dress, an evening dress and a playing dress were made. While designing the three different design products, whereas the patterns made in this study were used as they were for the upper body parts, the skirt lines were made with flat patterns to fit the designs. By completing actual products considering trends and details, it was identified that the suitability of the R & D top dress torso pattern was very high. As the result, it was found out that top dress torso pattern wearing wedding bra made wearers feel more comfortable and in the aspect of aesthetic impression, it provided impacts on women's beautiful silhouettes. A new original pattern, which will solve problems evaluated in each of the above from the aspect of composition of pattern by a method through analysis of existing original patterns and draping cut patterns wearing wedding bra, will be suggested. Further research will examine the use of developed patterns and their application to various dress designs.